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This is a story about a scrappy onetime oil boomtown, where cooks make the most of scraps and the oppressiveness of brisket and how popular narratives have obscured two Gulf Coast dishes that manage to hang on.

This is a story about a scrappy onetime oil boomtown, where cooks make the most of scraps and the oppressiveness of brisket and how popular narratives have obscured two Gulf Coast dishes that manage to hang on.

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